Mexico

Overview

I could only take a week long holiday from work and mostly from university and I really wanted to go diving. I had looked at other places and a country in particular but it was places I had never been to and I would have felt frustrated to go there and not dive or go there to dive and not see anything else. Looking at great places to dive at I found Los Cabos, and having visited another side of Mexico I didn’t mind so much staying in one area only.

9-10^th April

Off I go. I woke up super early, for no apparent reasons, so I went to the airport earlier to wait there instead of home. My dad and brother were there too so it was nice to see them before leaving. It was a really long day. I had a flight from Paris to Chicago then long layover there before taking another flight to Texas, sleeping in the airport however I could and then finally to Los Cabos. When I passed the American immigration I was asked where was my final dedstination. When I said I was going to Mexico the woman was surprised I was going alone and all the stamps in my passport. We chatted a couple of minutes as she was Mexican herself. Never had such a good experience with border crossing in the USA, a miracle. There I still had to wait for the bus which was 45 minutes long and walk to finally get to my hostel. I was exhausted by then so after checking in I decided to do nothing. I am on holiday after all, not used to that though. It’s quite different than travelling and being on the road. I stayed in the dorm or by the pool. In the evening some girls from my dorm were getting free shots as they were leaving the next day. We chatted quite a bit during the day and apparently they thought I was leaving too so I had free shots as well. They give away so much free alcohol it’s insane. Didn’t take many, I was just knackered (exhausted) and ready for bed.

11^th April

I think I am bad at doing nothing for long periods of time. As soon as I woke up I went to check out diving centers and chatted with the Australian in my dorm about La Paz. He had just come back from there after seeing whale sharks. So now I am planning a return trip to La Paz, which is 3 hours by bus one way. The tour starts early morning so I will have to spend a night there. He gave me the phone number of the tour he went with so I’m waiting for their reply to see when I can go, and I’ll try to sort out the diving around that. I already confirmed I’ll be diving tomorrow but for the 2 other dives I’ll see what they recommend. Nothing’s set. So in one morning I planned 3 dives, 6 hours bus drive and a tour in La Paz. I’m going to come back more tired than I left. It didn’t stop there, I met a great group around lunch time through a Chinese woman staying in my dorm as well. They offered us to join them on a boat tour in the afternoon. We didn’t even know until the last minute if we could join or not because we had to ask if there was places left. Some of the guys in the group were Mexican so we ended up with a better deal than most tourists, but it was still a lot for a boat tour. I don’t care, I’m on grown-up holidays. It’s nice, but can’t wait to just take my backpack for a few months, it’s not the same. The weather was not ideal but I love the water and didn’t care, I think some were dissapointed. Being my foolish self I was doing headstands and other shenanigans on the boat, it was fun. At night a couple of us went to see the sunset before going to a restaurant. The food was amazing, it was really nice.

12^th April

I had to wake up early to go diving. The Chinese woman, Jenny, kept on saying the water was too cold to dive but I know I’m more immune to it than most so I hoped it would be ok and thankfully it was, although not very warm. We went to 2 different dive spots, the first one was where we had stopped to snorkel the day before. It was a chill dive, not too deep, following the reef. We saw a lot of lobsters and octopus which was amazing. The second dive was on the way back and it was also lots of fun. After coming back I went to the hostel when some people were leaving. I walked to the bus station with one of them having to pass by to the dive centre to get the photos. I knew I was going to La Paz in the afternoon to do the tour so I went quickly back to the hostel to pack my bag and book my bus ticket. I missed the booking as apparently you can’t book it less than an hour before and I hesitated for about a minute. So I decided to get it directly from the bus station. It was a blessing in disguise because I hadn’t realized it would take 45 minutes to walk there and I might have missed the bus was it not for that. In La Paz I met an amazing American working in Guadalajara and we went to get dinner together, catch the sunset and walk around the city.

13^th April

Another day, another early start. It makes me think I don’t really know the meaning of holidays. Yesterday evening I realized I lost my diving mask but I got really lucky, they found it in the bus and kept it around so I could retrieve it just before the tour. The tour was absolutely incredible. I wasn’t as lucky as Jorden with the weather and the visibility wasn’t the best but oddly I didn’t mind. I swam with whale sharks! What more could I have wanted. I’ll see them under better visibility another time. It was unbelievable! The weather was on the cold side and the photos are really more green than blue but that also made it better in some ways. I was swimming seeing nothing, getting towards a 20m (≈ 66ft) beast of a shark and seeing it. I would only see it when I was almost close enough to touch! It was a bit nerve wracking the first time. With clear visibility the mystery would not have been the same. It was better than I could have imagined anyways and I can’t wait to see whale sharks again. I just want to go back. Afterwards we went to see the sea lions. It was super nice too. They were chilling and swimming a bit, I would have loved to see them playing around but at this point I don’t even care, it was so cool. After all the excitment we went to a gorgeous sort of private beach to have lunch, a freshly made ceviche with fish caught in the morning, mango, avocado… It was delicious, the best ceviche I had. We stayed around 2 hours on the beach before coming back. I went straight to the bus station but the next bus was full so I had to wait for a bit, I had a great day but I couldn’t wait to be back to Los Cabos to take a well deserved shower and get rid of the salt on my skin.

14-15^th April

Tuesday I finally took a day off. I did nothing for a whole day, tanning by the pool, reading, sleeping. I only left the hostel to get some food at some point with another group of travellers but nothing more.

Friday was another story. I woke up early again to go see the sunrise before diving. It was actually my only chance to do so, tomorrow I’ll have to wake up even earlier to go dive. The sunrise was beautiful, definitely worse getting up early for. The beach near the hostel was the perfect spot to watch it. The dives were great, except for how short they were. One guy lost his air quite quickly both times so we had to go back up. I would have loved to keep going, especially with quite a lot of air left. We went to see the sand falls but didn’t had the time to go that far. We still saw lots of fish and rays. I also chatted a while with the dive master and the captain, sitting at the front just sunbathing. While waiting for the second group to emerge we saw some sea lions chilling on a rock and swimming around the boat. When we made it back there was a sea lion sitting at the back of a fishing boat, getting a free ride and hoping to get some food. At the pier another one had come by and a fishermen made he jump for some fish. A new way to hunt. After coming back and resting for a while I went horse riding. Getting there and booking it was a whole other but the help of a local who booked it for me made it possible. The horse tour really was great. We were riding western, which I hadn’t done in over 10 years! We walked around a desert landscape, full of sands and catcus. At the beginning I had asked if there would be a possibilty to gallop and I was told no, as most have never ridden a horse, and I totally understand. However, he still gave me the opportunity to do so on the beach. We got to the beach and someone really didn’t feel good on her horse and wanted to get back. While waiting for a jeep to come pick her up and the horse we chatted a bit and he asked about my level, having seen me on the trail and remembering what I had asked. He said I could stay at the back, walk slowly and then catch up with them! So nice. The horse in front of me was going so slow it ended up not being possible so I gave up on the idea but the horsemen came to see me to tell me I could gallop back to the end of the beach and then to where they were. We started together and I just let the horse going as fast as it wanted. It didn’t bit gallop in Colombia but it’s a very close second. I think it might even have been faster, the horse went all out. It was amamzing! I wasn’t used to the western saddle anymore so I lost a stirrup but no way was I stopping before I had to. It’s easier to hold on with no stirrups or only one in a classical saddle, or maybe I’m just more used to it. When we finished the tour I bought the photos, I think it’s the first time I do that with a tour, the photos where crzay expensive, but they were really cool. When I got back I had meant for an early start but a group going to party insisted I join and I agreed. I didn’t come back too late and didn’t drink but I’m in for a short night.

16-17^th April

I slept less than 5 hours, I’m dead. I woke up to go diving, again. We took a car from the dive shop to San José del Cabo about an hour away. We were three going to a specific dive spot to hope to see hammerhead sharks. I really want to see them, hopefully closer than last time and ifi was really lucky maybe see a school of them. I didn’t get really lucky! The dive master spotted a hammerhead shark tail and I saw it as well, he went to try to follow it but they were too fast. We were still lucky on the two dives by seeing a few sharks, corals and other fish, but no more hammerheads. One day I’ll get to see them. I’m already thinking of coming back to Los Cabos for that but maybe I’ll see them somewhere else. The boat drive was quite long but with saw some dolphin on the way. All in all we weren’t back to Los Cabos until almost 3pm. Got something to eat and then went back to the hostel to chill by the pool and rest for once. The last couple of hours of my trip.

In the evening I went out for real this time, but still not for long, I had a flight to catch. I left early to get a couple of hours to sleep before getting in an overly expensive cab to the airport and fly out. It will take me again over a day to get back to Paris. Working from home on Tuesday is the best idea I could have had!

22^nd October

Finally back in Mexico! After a nice couple of days at my cousin’s I was finally on my flight from Glasgow to Cancun. I couldn’t wait anymore. It was nice to be at my parents for a while but I really wanted to be travelling again. The flight was both the best and worst flight I had. I was not feeling super well most of the time, and 10 hours is long. On the other hand, I met the nicest flight attendant with whom I had a lovaly chat with. She got me a full row to myself as the flight was quite empty and at the end she asked so I could see the cockpit. It was super cool. The whole crew was really amazing. I want to see if the airline has a way to congratulate/thank crew member! I also met a super nice woman who was going to Mexico for a few months to dive and it helped pass the time. After the long flight the day was far from over. I took a bus from the airport to downtown Cancun and then tried to take a collectivo to Puerto Juarez but couldn’t find it and ended up walking about an hour to there. It was over 30° and I was in jeans, I was dying, I don’t know how Mexicans do it. Finally I got to the ferry, I just missed it so waited an hour and once on Isla Mujeres I had to take another bus to get me to my hostel. I still managed to get there just before sunset. It was absolutely stunning. The best welcome to Mexico I could get. I also met a nice German girl, Nicole, who I should meet again with in a couple of days, as she’s leaving tomorrow. Soon after sunset I was in bed, I’d been up about 23 hours by that time and I was just knackered, it was a long day…

23^rd October

I needed a chill day, so I got a chill day. I spent pretty much all day on one of the beds in front of the ocean, facing Cancun. The hostel is just incredible, better than some hotels I have seen. You have canopy beds and hammocks right in front if the ocean, and a pier which is where I saw the sunset from, it was perfect. I met a lovely Canadian woman who was going diving and went to get breakfast with her. We got to the supermarket and I took half a papaya to myself. I don’t think anything says more holidays than that. Later I was met by an Austrian girl who gave me some tips about some cenotes in Valladolid.

In the evening we went back to the pier to watch the sunset. We also sympathised with some Mexicans who work for the hostel and had some more tips for both of us for Merida. I know where to get the best ice cream there now! The day just flew by.

24^th October

In the morning I got up early to go to Punta Sur and watch the sunrise. It was stunning and mesmerizing. Lots of clouds made it really special, and really short. After that I went back to go to the free yoga class at my hostel. Yoga, on a pier, over the ocean, with the sun slowly showing up. It was perfect. The last moment peaceful moment of the day. I got breakfast and took a taxi with some other people from the hostel to the marina. Ferry, taxi, bus, ferry, walking and I was finally in my new hostel in Holbox. It took a big chunk of the day. I still had time to go see the beach before it got dark and chill a bit before meeting Nicole. I also brought back the shirt a friend of hers had forgotten. Lo and behold, the guys from my cab to the marina where also at that hostel so we all met later before going to eat and sit by the pier. There hostel is a party hostel but I think we all kind of wanted to get out of the party.

Holbox is insane, there has been lot of rainfalls recently and the street are drenched, and it’s been a week! In some places you have pools so big you don’t know where to walk. In one place there are bricks to make you a path because otherwise you’re in water. This is insane. I soon gave up on wearing shoes. I mean, the road are more like sand or clay, they’re not paved. So really, might as well go barefoot.

25^th October

My first day in Holbox I got really lazy whereas on my second one I walked 25km going everywhere. The first I spent most of my time at the beach, not doing much but enjoying the sun. I walked quite a bit around town and went to see the sunset on the pier before getting tacos. It was a great day, it was a chill day. At night it was a different story. With Nicole and her friend, we went to do a kayak tour at night, to see the bioluminescent plankton. It was simply incredible. The tour guide was named Victor Hugo, which I thought was hilarious. He was so nice and so insightful. One person in the group had to be solo in a kayak, so I volunteered. We went further away from the lights and then jumped in the water. It was really warm and so great. The three of us took our lifejackets off and actually went quite far away from the kayaks, swimming with the plankton. We were mesmerized, it felt like light was coming out of our arms and hands. It was incredibly beautiful. We were like Disney princesses. I would do it again, and again, and again.

26^th October

The next morning, I was awake really early so I decided to go watch the sunrise. The mosquitoes over there are insane! I quickly went to get repellent and then made my way to Punta Mosquito. You can walk on a sandbank to get there and enjoy the beach, which is probably great, but I realized this only on my way back! I followed the hotels by the water and then found a small beach with a protected area behind it. For a while, I was wondering if I was even allowed to be here. Guides doing kayak tours reassured me I was fine! I walked along the beach, it was absolutely stunning. I was also so lucky because I saw quite a few flamingos! It was a long walk, and it was barely sunrise when I left, so by the time I got to a warning sign telling me not to go further because of crocodiles, I decided to come back. I knew I could walk back a little and then make it to Punta Mosquito but I didn’t want to bother all the birds and flamingos. I did walk back quite a bit on the sandbank and it was so much easier!

It was barely 9am when I came back, after over 10km walking so I decided it was time for breakfast. I found a nice place in the main square. I wanted to go horse riding in Holbox, but after trying for a while to find the place I gave up and went back to rest for a bit. In the afternoon I took off again by the beach but in the opposite direction, to go to Playa Punta Cocos. It was so hot, and quite a long walk, I arrived dead. I met up with the two girls and we stayed there for a while. The water was so hot, we were melting. When came back later to watch the sunset from the pier again. I had wanted to go afterwards to see the bioluminescent plankton once again and take photos of the night sky but I just couldn’t walk anymore. Instead, we went to get dinner and an early night.

27-28^th October

A chill day going from Holbox to Valladolid. Once I got to the bus station I met a lovely Dutch couple and we met back a bit later for lunch while in Valladolid. We went to the restaurant with a cenote but sadly it is closed due to some renovations. It was still nice to see and the food was good. We walked a bit in town but called a day quite early, all tired.

The next morning I didn’t really go out, and it felt great. The afternoon on the other hand I decided to walk to the closest open cenote, Oxman. I walked about an hour, passing near the landfill which was not the nicest part of the walk. Locals seeing me were all a bit surprised and super nice. I finally got to the cenote and it was beautiful. There actually weren’t too many people. You actually have a rope swing and it is really fun. It somehow felt less scary than jumping from a lower platform. Over there I met a nice French couple who brought me back to Valladolid by car as they were staying there anyways. Saved me from the rain. In the evening after getting some churros the German girl I had met on my first day and I walked around town and so some festivities for Día de Los Muertos! It was amazing, with some traditional dancing and fireworks.

29^th October

What a day! I saw crocodiles! And more flamingos than I could count! And no pink lakes. With Nicole and another girl she had met, we wanted to go to Las Coloradas. I’m not sure why but the other girl was convinced we had to take a bus to Río Lagartos and then a cab so that’s what Nicole and I did. She didn’t come in the end as there were only 2 places left on the bus and she’s staying much longer so said we should go. We got to Río Lagartos and a guy doing a boat tour offered us to do one. We negotiated a bit the price and went on this amazing excursion. For about 2 hours we were on the water, stopping to see crocodiles, birds, flamingos and have a dip in the water. It was really great! The only thing we didn’t see were the pink lakes. It was off-season and they were actually more blue than pink, but I honestly think crocodiles beat pink lakes.

Turned out I was right, there was a bus going directly to Las Coloradas but we were glad we went to Río Lagartos instead. Although we missed the bus going back to Timizín and were ready to spend 3 hours in town we were really happy we did the tour. In the end we met a French couple (another!) with a car. They offered to drive us back to Timizín as it was on their way to Mérida. From there we only had about 20 minutes to wait before the next bus to Valladolid. By the time we got back we were starving so we got some food before relaxing for a bit.